Nina Tereze, Pristina's main street

Luke wakes up earliest and takes it upon himself to take a trip to our favourite bakery.  Although we have visited the baker before and shown that we have the capability to bid up prices,  Luke finds his nationality a big talking point. The girl behind the counter asks “English bomb?” which seems to be a good thing.  She even invites the person in the back room in. Then: “Hell you” which again seems to be a good thing.  Luke tries to pay, but this is refused, so he leaves the €1.20 on the side and makes a swift retreat.  Back at the flat we’re finally up and dressed and clearing up Mark’s graphical representations of society drawn on our notepad.  We finally walk out after eating out pain au jam and pain au chocolate.

We stroll down our road, and discuss the metal guttering on some of the unfinished houses next to the road (Kosovans will often build houses slowly if and when they find the money) and how this may be superior to the plastic found in the UK.  We walk for some time around the centre, looking for an internet café but despite the promises from the guidebook that there are places everywhere, they seem to be few and far between. We ask in two technology shops, one gives us a general pointing direction and the other which seems to be closer doesn’t know.

We finally find one, near Bill Clinton Boulevard, just as a EULEX convoy goes past.  The sirens are similar to the ones you might here in New York: a bit like the policemen are DJs and the cars are the decks. We decide to write blogs and research more contacts.  We spend more than an hour.  Mark tries again to bid up the price that’s quoted and agrees to 15 copies at 50 cents each. Thankfully, it’s 15 cents. Unperturbed, Mark is convinced that “Metro bar” is the place to go and the numerous cheap and nice places we pass are not up to standard.  He doesn’t even consider any other options as he flies over pedestrian crossings (cars and pedestrians have an understanding to keep things moving fluidly). Metro bar itself is pleasant but rather expensive as it overlooks the Grand Hotel, which is the main hotel in Pristina. It’s a concrete tower block with its name in white lights at the top, at the foot of the hotel there are many UN vehicles.  Mark is pleased and here he even tries not to bid up the price.

We phone our contacts and arrange a meeting with UNICEF and HandiKos.  We talk excitedly about our plans for OXAB in Kosovo.  However, it is now nearly 5pm and there is little more we can do in terms of phoning contacts.  We trek the 30 minutes uphill to our flat and exchange phone calls with Faz.  We walk down to the centre again to the National Theatre on the main pedestrianised strip lit by Christmas lights and with a large tree at the other end. We stop for yet another macchiato whilst we wait for Faz.  The national theatre itself is about the size of an average Odeon cinema, on one level and with red cinema style seats.  The cinema is about half full.  The ballet itself is an impressive modern dance routine which signifies the various aspects of life in Kosovo.

Luke is absoluetely speechless at what he sees as girls he’d love to marry. He’s embarrassed at the combination of the red jacket and the shirt he’s wearing and so as he talks with one of the dancers outside he simply holds his jacket in the sub-zero temperatures.  Everyone else is, of course, confused as to why he’s hot at the current time.  He isn’t.

Faz, his family and the dancers head off.  We head off towards a bar, Toto, which has a large number of national geographic magazines on the walls and there are comfortable seats and heart shaped stools.  Once again, the café culture in Pristina excels itself!  We move on for dinner, and confirm that sandwiches are always less of a good deal than a salad option.  Even after some more macchiatos we are tired from all of our activity over the last few days and walk back up to the apartment and to bed.

Tags: Kosovo, OXAB Kosovo Exploration Trip